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Saturday, April 19, 2014
The Massive Russian Radar Site in the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone
When you are in the middle of the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone, and your tour guide asks, with just a hint of guile, if you would like to see the Russian Woodpecker, you might think that you will finally be afforded a glimpse of one of the area’s fabled mutants, an irradiated avian with a beak the size of Finland.
You assent. Yes, let’s go see the Russian Woodpecker! How much more strange can things get, really? You then start driving into the woods, on a narrow lane that was once a road: everything in Chernobyl was once something, and something else. A deer skipped along our path.
The dosimeter clicked like a summer insect. As Marlow says in Heart of Darkness, “We could have fancied ourselves the first of men taking possession of an accursed inheritance.”
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